It all starts on the 6th floor of the 5-star Lotte Hotel, in the center of Seoul. After booking my place for Panmunjom Travel Center's Combined Tour, I show up at the agency office at 7:45 a.m. on a chilly Friday morning in December to begin my adventure. Our destination for the day is the dreaded DMZ -- or the notoriously "heavily fortified" Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea. Passport and conservative attire are required on the day -- this is not a do-it-yourself tour.
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